Before Chicks Arrive

  CLEAN & DISINFECT
  • Your Anstey chicks have come from a very clean and sterile environment.  We recommend cleaning and disinfecting procedures be used to ensure healthy happy chicks.
  • It is impossible to disinfect dirt.  Dirty conditions harbor micro-organisms that may lead to issues with your chicks.  Cleaning is the entire removal of dirt and buildup following by a thorough disinfecting.
  • A poultry house recommended disinfectant can be used or equal parts of bleach and water. 50/50
  • Clean and thoroughly disinfect all poultry equipment , feeders, waters, etc.
  • Make sure the building is dry before adding the litter to the floor.
LITTER
  •  A good litter provides stability and insulation for the birds.
  • We recommend at least 3 - 4 inches of course cut wheat straw, aspen or pine shavings. DO NOT use horticultural peat moss, sand or paper as these can be harmful to your birds.
  • Chilling can be caused by not enough floor insulation. this can lead to mortalities, stunting, acidities, or crooked legs.
  • Do not replace all the bedding at once.
  • Remove any wet or caked litter as soon as it develops, and add clean, fresh litter.
 FLOOR SPACE
  • Use 18' high chick guard (corrugated cardboard) in a diameter to eliminate crowding as chicks tend to crowd in corners and can stray from the heat source.  The chick guard will also reduce any drafts.   A 35 foot roll of chick guard in a diameter is comfortable for 200 chicks.
  • Keep the guard in place for at least 7 - 10 days.
  • Once chicks outgrow the space within the chick guard, allow at least 2 square feet per bird.
  • DO NOT USE RUBBERMAID TUBS AS A BROODING SPACE. This does not provide sufficient ventilation. Chicks need space for movement to and from heat. Constant direct heat can lead to suffocation and health issues. This is also a fire hazard.
HEAT 
  • Preheat the area at least 24 hours before your chicks arrive.
  • The temperature should be  89 - 91°F (31 - 33°C) at a point 2" above the litter or head level of the chicks.  Temperature is of utmost importance for the first week.
  • A 250 watt infrared heat lamp hung at 18" above the floor is advised.
  • Never use a white heat lamp as the light intensity is too bright which promotes stress and picking problems. (see temp schedule)
VENTILATION
  •  It provides fresh air, removes stale air, controls temperature, controls humidity , removes dust,  regulates ammonia and carbon dioxide levels as well as keeping the floor drier and the chicks healthier.
  • Rubbermaid tubs as brooding areas DO NOT provide enough ventilation to keep chicks healthy. NEVER USE THESE FOR BROODING.
WATER
  • Provide 2 - 1 gal (4.5 Ltr.) waterers for each 100 chicks.
  • Have water set out prior to chicks arriving to bring up to room temperature.
  • Clean fresh water is of utmost importance.  Have waterers filled at room temperature when chicks arrive.
  • Water is a vital nutrient and makes up 60-70% of the chicken and is present in all cells.
We recommend water available for the 2 - 3  hours before first feeding.

FEEDING
  • Allow 1 inch of feeder space per chick.  One 3 foot feeder can handle 75 chicks.
  • Chicks should be a fed a 20% fine crumble Chick Starter.
  • Never dilute a starter with grains because the birds need all the vitamins and minerals provided in the starter.
These are steps to consider before the chicks arrive.  We trust that you follow the above points to achieve the desired results from your flock of Anstey chicks
COMMON BROODING MANAGEMENT ISSUES

Watch for the following and correct any issues if they arise.

TOO COLD
  • Chicks are piling up on each other and not eating or drinking​
Solution: Use thermometer at head level of chicks. Check your brooder is warm enough and lower lamp if needed. Chicks that are comfortable will move freely around the pen.


TOO WARM
  • Chicks are panting and/or holding wings away from body. Sometimes can look wet if too warm.
Solution: Use a thermometer at head level of chicks. Raise heat lamp and make sure there is adequate ventilation.


DEHYDRAYTED OR MALNOURISHED
  • Chicks are listless or not active. They may take a few steps then sit/lay down. 
Solution: Ensure the temperature in the brooder is not too warm or too cold. Check lighting, if chicks can't see the feeders properly they will not eat. Ensure chicks have access to clean water at all times.


​SICK CHICKS
  • Chicks not eating or drinking, acting listless or lethargic.
Solution: Ensure your brooder space is at the correct temperature, has adequate ventilation, fresh feed, and clean water at all times. Remove wet or caked litter frequently and replace with fresh litter. Quarantine sick birds to prevent spreading illness to rest of flock.                        
Click below on the breed for more information on feeding and brooding
  • CORNISH CROSS
  • LAYERS
  • TURKEYS
  • DUCKS/GEESE
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*Please be sure to read Before Chicks Arrive 

FEEDING AND BROODING FOR CORNISH CROSS

AFTER CHICKS ARRIVE

Note: Always measure temperatures at head level of the bird.
  • Keep temperature at 89 - 91°F (31 -33°C) at head level of the birds for the first week.  Temperatures above or below this range will adversely affect the growth and well being of the birds.
  • Reduce the temperature 5°F (3°C) each week until 70°F (21°C) is reached.
  • Infrared heat lamps are recommended.  Plan for 3 heat lamps per 100 chicks.  
  • Lamps should be set 18' (46 cm) above the floor for the first week and raised approx 3" (7.7 cm) each week until 70°F (21°C) is obtained.
Chicks need to be kept warm and away from drafts.  If chicks become chilled for a long period of time, it could lead to problems such as stunted growth, respiratory problems , parasites, or death. 

​TEMPERATURE SCHEDULE
    Days                Temp
    1 - 7         32 - 34°C (90 - 93°F)
  8 - 14         30 -31°C  (86 - 88°F)
 15 - 21         27 - 28°C (80 - 82°F)
22 - 28         24 - 25°C (75 - 77°F)
29 - 35         21 - 22°C  (70 - 72°F)
    36 +          20 - 21°C  (68 - 70°F)    
                     
Danger signs to recognize
  • Loud chirping means discomfort, hunger or fear.               
  • Cold chicks will huddle.  Chicks that are too hot will pant and be listless.                                                                 
​WATER
  • Provide two 1-Gal waterers for each 100 chicks.
  • Clean fresh water is of utmost importance.
  • Have waterers filled with room temperature water before chicks arrive.
  • Water is a vital nutrient and makes up 60 - 70% of a chicken present in all cells.
  • Water regulates the birds body temperature.
  • We recommend only water 2 to 3 hours before feeding.
  • Add Poul-Vite (1 tsp/gal) for the first 5 days for a healthy start.
  • If you are using hard water we also recommend using medi-zone in the water                                                                                                                                               
FEEDING
  • Cornish Cross chicks should be fed 20% Chick Starter for the first 3 weeks.
  • NEVER dilute a starter with grains because the birds need all the vitamins an minerals provided in the starter.
  • Allow 1 inch of feeder space per bird.  One 3" feeder can handle 75 chicks.
  Tip: Start chicks for the first 3 days by using feeder trays or box lids that are approx 2' square and with a 1" lip or use egg flats to put the feed in.  This will be easier for the chicks to find and take to the food.  
  • After 3 weeks of age use a 16% chick grower or a 35% chick supplement if you are mixing with your own grains. 
 Mixing guidelines are as follows:
  • If using a 35% poultry supplement mix 1 part supplement to 4 parts cracked or chopped grains.
  • Recommended grain mixture is 60% wheat, 25 % oats, and 15 % barley.  1/3 of each mixed with 1 part supplement is also acceptable.
  • Always add a poultry supplement when mixing your own grains. Grains alone lack several essential nutrients needed for steady growth and to maintain healthy birds.
  • You may feed a straight grain chop 1 week prior to butchering.
  •  If not using grains use a 16 % chick grower.  This can be fed straight through until butchering.  Do not dilute 16% chick grower with grains as this is a complete ration.
  • Provide grit from 3 - 4 weeks through the growing period.  Sprinkle the grit on top of the feed and have a separate container with grit alone.
  • A form of calcium such as limestone is recommend to strengthen bones and joints and reduce leg problems. Sprinkle on top of feed and have a separate container available with limestone alone for the birds to go to.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR FEEDING CORNISH CROSS
*It is most important to to restrict the feed when raising Cornish Cross.  Birds will be more active and healthier on a restricted feeding program.*
  • Let the chicks have full feed for the first 4 days and then start restricting their feed.
  • After 4 days allow approx 4 - 6 hours of feeding time in a 24 hour period with feed in front of them.  eg. 2 - 3 hours in morning and 2 - 3 hours in evening.
  • Allow access to water at all times.  DO NOT restrict water.
  • When the chicks are 1 week of age move the feeders and waters away from each other at least 5' - 6' apart.  This will help keep the chicks active.
  • The Cornish Cross chicken will continually eat as long as the food is available to the bird.  
  • By restricting the feeding time the bird will be more active and less prone to heart attacks and leg problems.

LIGHTING
  • Cornish Cross chickens do not require a high light intensity.  Keep the lights dim.  If the lighting is too bright it can promote stress and lead to picking.
  • Have 24 hours of dim light for the first 4 days.
  • Cut back the time of  dim light to 12 hours in a 24 hour period.​
DAYS OLD               LIGHT
0-4                         24 Hours

5-21                        12 Hours dim                                          lighting.            You should just barely be able to read a newspaper.

​21+                          12 Hours dim                                          lighting.
DAYS OLD               TEMPERATURE
0-4                         90°F (32°C)

5-21                         Reduce by                                             5°F (3°C) a week. Achieve this by raising the lamp by 3" at a time. Always use a thermometer at the head level of the bird. 

21+                          70°F (21°C)
This is a comfortable temperature to maintain after 4 weeks of age (with good ventilation).                        
DAYS OLD               FEED
0-4                          20% Chick starter                                  24 hours

5-21                        20% Chick starter              4-6 hours in a 24 hour period
  eg. 2-3 hours AM and 2-3 hours PM          of feeding time.

21+                           16% Grower              (complete ration DO NOT DILUTE)
           
                or mix 1 part 35% poultry                     supplement to 4 parts grain.     (60% wheat, 25% oats, 15% barley)
FEEDING GUIDE FOR CORNISH CROSS

Give full feed for the first 4 - 5 days and then start to restrict feed intake.

WEEK 1 - Cumulative feed intake for the first week will be approximate 1/3 of a pound per bird

WEEK 2 -  The daily feed consumption per bird will rise from 0.066 Lbs to 0.132 Lbs as the week progresses

​WEEK 3 - Daily consumption per bird 0.145 up to 0.225 by the end of the week
              - End of starter after week 3

WEEK 4 - Begin a 16% grower ration or grains with a 35% supplement added 4 parts grain 1 part supplement.
              - By the end of week 4 the daily consumption per bird will rise to 0.333 per bird

WEEK 5 to 8+ Plan on 0.4 Lbs to 0.5 Lbs per bird

It is recommended to stay on the lower end of the scale for a more healthy and active bird.  
*Please be sure to read Before Chicks Arrive
​
FEEDING AND BROODING INSTRUCTIONS FOR LAYERS

AFTER CHICKS ARRIVE

WATER
  • Provide 1 inch of water space per bird.
  • Provide two - 1 gal (4.5L) waters for 100 chicks.
  • Clean fresh water is of the utmost importance.
  • Have waters filled at room temperature when chicks arrive.
  • Water is a vital nutrient and makes up 60 - 70% of the chicken and is present in all cells.
  • Water regulates the birds body temperature.
  • Add Poul-Vite at 1 tsp per/gal for the first 5 days to give them a healthy start.
  • If your water is hard we also recommend that Medi-Zone be added to the water.
  • Take note of the water supply. A birds intake will double in warmer weather.
Note: Once your pullets are laying, any change in conditions such as radical temperature changes or any move may decrease the production.  Stress-Aid in the water  will help with this adjustment as it does not contain any antibiotics and only vitamins and electrolytes.  
FEED
  • Provide 1 inch of feeder space for chicks and 2 inches for adult layers.
Prepared Feed Ration (DO NOT DILUTE)
  • Start the chicks on a 20% chicks starter for the first 6 weeks.
  • After 6 weeks switch to a 16 % Grower Ration until 17 - 18 weeks and  then a 18% Layer Ration should be fed.
Farm Grain Feed Ration
  • Start the chicks on a 20% chick starter for the first 6 weeks.
  • After 6 weeks use a 35 % Poultry Supplement mixed at 4 parts grain to 1 part supplement.
  • Recommended grain mix (60% wheat, 25% oats, 15% barley).  
  • Oyster Shell should be used as a calcium supplement and to help strengthen shell quality at 18 weeks.
  • Sprinkle the Oyster Shell on top of the feed and have a separate container of it available for free choice as the birds know when they need more calcium and will go to the Oyster Shell available.
  • It is important to keep in mind that a bird has specific requirements for energy, protein, minerals and vitamins in order to build and maintain a productive laying cycle.
  • When the weather is hot, feed consumption decreases and nutrition should be adjusted.
  • If the building is too cold, feed consumption increases which adds to additional costs.  this may lead to overweight layers and lower egg production and also increase the risk of blow outs.  (fatty build-up in the backs ends which can lead to ruptures)
             Cutting corners in any poultry program does not save money.  More often than not it will cost you $$$$$$$$$.

LIGHTING
  • A proper lighting program cannot be stressed enough for layers right from day one.  It combined is as important as feed and water.
The following lighting program is designed to have the flock lay the first eggs at 19 weeks of age, reach 10% production at 21 weeks and peak production at 25 to 27 weeks of age.  
  • Start the chicks on 22 hours of good bright light for the first week.
  • At this time decrease the light intensity to a dim light. ​Eg. just barely able to read a newspaper in the room
  • If the lighting intensity is too bright this puts stress on the bird and increases picking problems.
  • Have 18 hours of dim light available for the second week.
  • On the 3rd week provide 16 hours of dim light.
  • On the 4th week provide 12 hours of dim light.
  • On the 5th week provide 10 hours of dim light  until 17 weeks of age.
  • At 18 weeks of age start increasing the lighting time by 30 minutes per week until 15 hours of dim lighting is provided.  
  • A time clock makes it easy to maintain a proper lighting program.
  • Lighting is a very important aspect to good layer production.
If you see problems, determine the cause and correct it early.  This will help maintain a healthy productive flock.
*Please contact us for any help or tips, as we want to see your flock as happy as you do. 306-242-1033
FEEDING AND BROODING INSTRUCTIONS FOR TURKEY POULTS
​
HEAT
Temperature is extremely important for the first week for turkey poults.
Keep the temperature at 92 - 95°F (32 - 35°C) head level of the bird for the first week.
  • The temperature can be decreased 5°F (3 deg°C) each week until you reach 70°F (21°C)
Turkeys are extremely sensitive to chilling so it is very important to keep the heat constant.  Always check for any draft as turkey are particularly    sensitive to any drafts and tend to go to the draft rather than away from it.
  • Allow 3 infrared heat lamps per 100 poults or enough lamps to maintain proper temperature.
  • Lamps should be set 18" (46 cm) above the floor for the first week and raised approximately 3" (7.5 cm) each week until a temperature of 70°F (21°C) is reached.
FLOOR SPACE
  • Turkey poults are twice the size of chicks.  Allow 1 to 2 square feet per bird.
  • Place 18" chick guard in a diameter to prevent poults from straying from the heat.
  • Chick guard perimeter should be sufficient to permit poults to eat and drink at the edge of the heated are and return to the warm brooding area for the heat.
  • Before allowing the poults the run of the whole brooder house make sure the corners of the house are rounded so the birds do not pile into corners.
  • Watch the flock carefully for signs of litter eating.
  • DO NOT USE RUBBERMAID TUBS AS A BROODING SPACE. This does not provide sufficient ventilation, poults need space for movement to and from heat. Constant direct heat can lead to suffocation and health issues. This is also a fire hazard. Slippery surfaces can also cause leg problems in poults.
FEEDERS
  • Allow 2" - 4" (5 - 10cm) of feeder space per bird
  • One 36" (1 meter) feeder will feed approximately 50 - 75 young birds.  About 25 adult birds.
WATER
  • Allow 3 or 4 - 1 gal (4.5L) waters for every 100 poults
  • Use Poul-Vite for the first 5 days at 1 tsp per gal of fresh clean water.
  • Add vitamins in the water from one week of age throughout the growing period to help reduce leg problems.
  • Use clean large marbles or ball bearings in waterers as this attracts turkey poults to the waters.
VENTILATION
  • Ventilation is always important, it provides fresh air and removes stale air, it controls temperature, it controls humidity, it removes dust and regulates ammonia and carbon dioxide levels as well keeping the floor drier and the chicks healthier.
  • Rubbermaid tubs as brooding areas DO NOT provide enough ventilation to keep poults healthy. NEVER USE THESE FOR BROODING.
LIGHTING 
  • Have full light available for the first week to ensure turkeys find the feed and water.
Tip: Have some chicks mixed in in with the turkeys for the first few days to help teach the turkeys to find the food and water.  Chicks will automatically go to    the food and water and the turkeys will follow.
  • After turkey poults have been on feed and water for the first week reduce the light intensity to limit the possibly of picking problems.  
  • Lights from infrared heat lamps can be enough lighting in many cases depending of the building if necessary supplement a low wattage light bulb.  If the lighting is too bright it can promote picking problems.
FEEDING
  • Turkey should be fed a 25 - 28% Turkey Starter for the first 6 weeks.
  • NEVER dilute a starter with grains as it drastically reduces the vitamin and mineral intake and the full nutrition needed for a turkeys strong start. 
Prepared Feed Ration
  • After 6 weeks of age an 16 - 18% Grower ration can be fed straight.  DO NOT DILUTE WITH GRAINS as this is a complete ration meant to be fed straight.
Farm Grain Feed Ration
  • After 6 weeks  of age use a 35% Supplement mixed with 3 parts grains to 1 part supplement.  
  • Recommended grain mixture is 60% wheat, 25% oats and 15% barley.  3 parts of the grain mixture to one part 35% Supplement.
Note: Grains alone lack several essential nutrients needed for steady growth and to maintain healthy turkeys.  
  • Provide calcium grit from 3 - 4 weeks on as free choice.
  • A form of calcium such as limestone is also recommended to strengthen bones and joints and reduce any leg problems.

If you see problems, determine the cause and correct it early.  This will help maintain a healthy flock of turkeys.  
Contact us for any help or tips 306-242-1033
FEEDING AND BROODING INSTRUCTIONS FOR DUCKLINGS AND GOSLING

WATERFOWL
  • Ducklings and Goslings can be brooded about the same way as chicks.
  • Due to their rapid growth they will need heat for a shorter period of time and floor space requirements will increase more rapidly.
  • Ducks and Geese are easy to raise because they are very hardy and not susceptible to many of the common poultry problems.
  • Small flocks of ducks and geese raised in the late spring with access to green feed outdoors generally have few nutritional issues.
  • While ducks are not as good a foragers as geese, they do eat some green feed and farm flocks are often allowed to run at large.
  • Cut green feed can be supplied to the waterfowl when they must be kept inside during inclement weather.
  • If ducks are kept longer than 11-12 weeks new pinfeathers begin to develop making it more difficult to pluck them clean for another several weeks.
  • Ducklings will manage nicely on range at 4 weeks of age unless the weather is cold and not acceptable for brooding.
  • Goslings can be placed outdoors at 2 weeks of age weather permitting.
  • Waterfowl need shade and cannot tolerate chilling rains until they are well feathered on their backs.
  • When ducks or geese reach 5 to 8 weeks of age they need shelter only during extreme weather conditions.
  • Water for swimming isn't necessary for ducks.  However if you do wish for them to swim in a dugout or pond one must wait until they are at least one month old and only then under supervision until at least 5 to 6 weeks of age.  It takes up to then for the oils on their feathers to develop.
WATER
  • Ducklings and Goslings should have drinking water available at all times.
  • Avoid having the waterfowl get too wet at a young age as they can be easily chilled while they are still in the "down" stage.
FEEDING
  • Use a Duck and Goose Starter for the first 3 weeks.
  • The use of medicated feed is not necessary and not recommended for waterfowl.  A non medicated Chick Starter is fine for the birds.
  • After 3 weeks switch to a complete ration of 16% Grower or if mixing your own grains use a 35% Supplement and mix 4 parts grains to 1 part Supplement.
  • Recommended grain combination is 60% wheat, 25% oats, 15% barley.
LITTER
  • The flooring should be covered with at least 3 inches of litter.  Course Wheat Straw, Shavings, or Poultry Peat Moss.  Do Not use horticultural peat moss as it is harmful to the birds. 
  • Good litter management will require removal of wet spots and frequent addition of clean dry litter.  Be sure litter is free of mold.
  • DO NOT use smooth surfaced paper such as newspaper as it is slippery which can cause permanent leg problems.
HEAT
  • Always have your temperature measured at head level of the bird.
  • Temperature range for starting ducks and goslings should be 85 - 90°F (27 - 32°C) for the first week and reduce 5°F (3°C) per week until 70°F (21°C)
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